You can also see that the bottom of the radiator is kicked forward to clear the steering box. A couple of tips: Watch the application charts when youre selecting a kit. Advance Adapters, which offers motor mounts, headers, and radiators for the swap, estimates the time needed at 40 to 50 hours. Below is a picture of my original H-Body 4-lug components compared to the S10 5-lug parts I installed. Comes with a lifetime free replacement warranty on the bushings. So we figured it was about time we got our butts in gear and answered some of your questions. Boondock also sells an armored bumper that can contain a winch through Synergyoffroad.
Attached you will see my frame swap cab stands, complete with measurements and pics so they can be duplicated for your build. All 6 relays will be wired properly in the new harness from Current Performance and simply go right back on to the firewall, the original 4 relays themselves actually stay on the firewall, just simply unplug the connector. This box contains most of the relays and fuses for the engine components. That looks like a good outfit to keep track of, they sure have the engine mountings for the S-10 under control. The stock stamped control arms are weak in design and are subject to deformation where the bushing is pressed through the two vertical pieces of the pivot on the arm.
The S10 frame is a rectangular tube frame and is welded from the factory vertically and horizontally in a Z configuration and the frame is joined together where I shortened it from the factory. I figured the plates will make a good attach point for the seat belts too. What I do is to cut the ends off of the stock S10 mount, about 6 inches in from the frame on each side. For the rear mount I made some plates and welded them under the cab floor in the cab corners then built mounts that bolt to them and welded those to the frame. Another option is to get an iron front differential from a 4x4 5 speed and install a Outfitter Design Bravada Shaft kit to delete the axle disconnect. John's truck was built without changing much on his frame. Some kits will work only with certain years of engines, while others are specifically designed for two-wheel drive or four-wheel drive.
Generally, the farther back you can get it, the more room you'll have for your fan setup. The upper replacement bushings are prone to accelerated wear in that kit. Here's the driver's side front mount: Next I started looking at the mounting of the front sheet metal. While actively participating in the streetrod aftermarket industry for many decades, Code 504 has recognized a need for a quality S-10 bolt-on conversion kit and accessories to finish the project from A to Z. The easiest and least expensive way to mount a winch currently is to use the hidden winch mount by Synergy Offroad which mounts the winch between the frame rails behind the factory bumper.
The cool thing is that the front leaf spring mounts are riveted to the frame. There will be 2 extra relays to be mounted on the firewall next to the existing 1 that is there now to control the electric fans. Any of the holes that need to be drilled are all indented in the sheet metal from the factory. If it is, they can reject it, and send it for a stability test. You sure don't want to build a truck, only to find out you can never legally register it.
Here's a few more swap links. I wanted to build something cheap, fun to drive and look kinda cool to boot. I then clean up the ends and bolt the crossmember back on the trans. I had to trim some off the inner fenders to get it to clear the upper control arms and frame. Look for a swap that suits your skills.
Front axle shaft… Oldsmobile Bravada's came with a one piece front axle shaft instead of the slide collar found in all other S10 4x4 front axle housings that is weak. Anyway I'll start from the beginning and post up to where I am currently on it. A full locking differential will distribute 100 % of torque to both wheels. The hole process cost much less than having a Camaro clip put on, but it was probably more work. You also need a place to tear apart the two vehicles, and work on this project. This kit is new on the market and features tubular upper control arms that utilize fullsize silverado balljoints.
Another advantage is the fact you are now playing with a frame that is 30+ years newer then the original one. In fact, the easiest way to source an automatic transmission is to buy the one attached to your replacement engine. One of the most prolific we found is Lees High Tech Trucks in Pinellas Park, Florida. They have the highest pullout rating and hold their strength even when put to the max angle. If you don't plan on completely overhauling the front suspension, inspect the front suspension before the swap to make sure it is in good shape, that way you can replace all of the worn components during the swap. If you don't the inside of the bed looks too shallow due to the kick up in the back.
Being one of the few that has actually done the S-10 swap, I guess i ought to throw in my 2 cents. Many of these parts are available through retailers like Summit and Jegs, or directly from the manufacturers. Of course, you can always use an aftermarket tachometer and avoid any of these extra pieces or hassles. Next is the placement of those cab stands. Said it lots, can't build a house on shifting sands so a stout frame is a must. Check the floor of the cab to make sure it is level. You are best off leaving the chassis exactly as it was designed.